The Kahns: March 2008

With the coming of Easter Weekend, Good Ol' LT Environmental gives Good Friday off as a holiday, and thus the opportunity for Steve, Brian, and Rob to test themselves on some early season desert testpieces. We started off in Moab, and made our way east back to D-town. The Front Range is undoubtedly one of the finest places to be a climber, with so much within reach. The Utah and Colorado desert sandstone is definitely my favorite rock, as I love climbing the crack systems that fracture the rock and provide pathways up into the vert world and climbers only summits.

Given the unusual 3 day holiday, we planned on making the most of it, and debated all week over what the objectives should be. The most obvious choice and perhaps the most remarkable tower in all the Moab area is Moses. It somehow seemed fitting (at least to our religiously uneducated brains) to give Moses a go on Good Friday. Aside from Moses, we discussed The Gossips, Ancient Art, Castelton, Lighthouse Tower, Sentinal Spire, and others....

Eventually Thursday came around and we left for our nighttime drive. Crashing out just outside of Canyonlands (camping in the park is usually all booked up by the incessant hordes of mountain bikers), we spent the night in anticipation of the Primrose Diheadrals.

Here's a pic of Moses. It's obvious why this summit is so spectacular.

Here Rob leads the crux first pitch - the mass of the rock above is daunting indeed.

Steve Belaying pitch 1.

After leading pitch 2, I show my aiding roots and opt for the pendulum swing instead of the 5.8 free climbers downclimb variation on pitch 3.

Here Brian shows his prowess via the downclimb, traverse, and no pro climb until level with the belay. Rob and i will appreciate this when seconding...probably 200+ feet of air beneath his feet.

After getting up to the third belay, Rob tackles the gem of the climb, pitch #4. Pretty much #3's the whole way, with a few buldges, this pitch is a crack climber's wet dream. Up high above the next ledge (belay #5), you can see the real crux of the climb, the infamous "ear" pitch. The ear starts off with some hard to protect but intersting 5.9, up to the base of the wide slot...The ear proper probably varies between about 6 to 12 inches wide, and is super steep. It goes free at 5.11, or a much easier 5.9/5.10 C1.

Brian, who has earned the work nickname "Robin" (with Rob as the one and only Bruce Wayne), tackles the pitch, flashing the 5.9, and yarding on most of the draws on the ear proper. We come to find that the ear has recently been retro bolted, much to the dismay of many in the climbing community who feel that the lack of bolts on the top of the ear added to the climb's character. At this point in the day, with daylight wanting to start turning into the reverse alpenglow, and the shivers begining to set in, we have no complaints, and our energy turns into full summit assault.

Here Batman uses his utility belt to gain ground over the main pitch #4 bulge, my favorite of the climb.

Brian following over one of the last buldges on pitch 4 (note the perfect hands).

After finishing the ear pitch (not shown), one last pitch will yield the summit. After taking on the ear, Robin is ancy for the last pitch, and has turned into our summit pitch ropegun; specializing in nasty unprotected offwidths and chimneys. Much to me and Rob's delight, Brian actually is quite proficient in these adverse conditions, that makes most climbers loose their nerve (me included)...it is a rare breed that excels in this kind of environment. Brian also shows a great ability to lead very near his free climbing limit.

After gaining the summit, we spend a good half hour soaking in the full beauty of Taylor Canyon. The registry is packed full of professional climbers names that we recognize from the magazines. Primrose undoubtedly delivers as one of the best routes in the desert, that finishes on one of the most spectacular summits to be had. The summit caprock is about 10 feet by 10 feet, a good 400-500 feet off the ground, and is perfectly flat. A truely special place seen by few.

Our spirits are high as victory sets in, and although the long straight, near 200 foot raps that are mostly free hanging triggers primal fear, we know that Rob's home brew and rib eye steaks are waiting below. We camp again outside of the park, resenting the endless numbers of mountainbikers that steal away all the sites in the park.

The next day, feeling sore and a little beat down, we opt to give a go to the westface route of the southernmost gossip. With only 3 pitches, and a short approach, and since any of the moves can be clean aided, this seems to be the best choice.

Here I (Steve) get my groove on on pitch #1, a classic 10 handcrack, that ends in a tough buldge.

Here the tower gives some perspective. If you look close, you can see me at the first belay and Rob following.

Batman and Robin on the first and second belay.

Rob belaing the final third pitch.

After busting yet another summit chimney pitch, Brian pulls more than his weight and we celebrate another summit.

Rob and Brian search for perspective on the climbers only summit.

Rob and I share the view.

Now feeling really spent, we head into Moab for some Eddy McStiffs. After filling our gullets, we start making our way back, and hit river road to Fruita. We camp off the Colorado River, and have our coldest night yet before heading into the Colorado National Monument. Our final day, we persevere to get up Sentinal Spire via Fast Draw.

Here you can see Sentinal Spire. Fast Draw goes up the backside of the tower up the shorter face (2 pitches). From this angle, we are looking right at Medicine Man, a 5.12 overhanging tight hand crack. True hardman territory.

Rob on the rap to descend into the canyon.

Rob takes pitch 1, a 10 to 10+ off fingers bouldery start. 50-60 feet of Perfect hands follow.

Rob belays in the pod, with Brian following.

Brian takes on the final chimney pitch of the trip. This is actually the hardest chimney we climbed all trip long. Once again, Brian pulls his weight and gains the summit.

Our third summit in 3 days. Thanks Brian and Rob for being such solid partners. Can't wait for the next trip!

A final look before the trip home. Kissing Couple, Independence Monument, and Grand View Spire in the background.

For some reason, year 2008 is turning into a good climbing year for Steve. With a couple of new partners and one old one, old personal testpieces are being revisited, while new routes are offering adventure yet unseen.

Before the raptor closures hit, Brian, Steve, and Rob managed to get up my local favorite, cynacle pinnacle. The pinnacle is such an odd formation, as granite towers are rare (at least in these parts), and a multi-pitch route with this kind quality less than an hour away from my doorstep can only bring a smile to your face. Being only late February, we pretty much froze our butts off, brutilzed our hands, and I probably shiverred for over an hour straight at the third belay....perfection!

I find a happy Rob and Brian at the crowded third belay. Rob about to take off and make the 10a traverse from center route over to wunch's.

Rob on top of the third pitch, after finishing the crux and feeling cold, spent, but satisfied.

Dodek taking care of business on the summit. Note the endless routes of the Cathedral Spires in the background. Less than an hour of light left and a storm to the west....time to go!

The very next weekend, Rob, Joby, and Steve got to challenge themselves on the "Grand Giraffe" route in the awesome Eldorado Canyon. Here's rob getting out there on Pitch 2, a typical eldorado discontinuous here and there crack! A much nicer and sunier day finally got rid of the chills from weekend prior.

After just a smidge of encouragement, and realizing that he's pulling hard man routes in the gym, Joby gets his sharp end on!

Rob taking off on the climbs namesake...the grand giraffe. Glad i didn't have to climb with or plug in those big cams!

Finally after Rob gets sick me and Joby's belay anticts/stalling techniques, Rob takes off on the typical eldo top out pitches....Easy, Juggy, and blank for pro. Easy to second, but heady to lead, Rob bails out back into the vert world.